5 Common Questions About Concealing Surface Pipework [Boiler Relocation]

Are you looking to relocate your boiler, and want some advice about concealing surface pipework? 

Not everyone knows what to expect in terms of pipework when relocating a boiler. There are many possible scenarios

Perhaps you currently have pipe boxing leading to your boiler, or you might have already moved it and ripped out your tanks etc. before decorating your house. Your house may be looking fab, but if you don’t know better, you may have left the boxes in your kitchen or dining room unnecessarily. You could easily strip them out, instead! (That’s why I like to point out if they’ve been rerouted)

Perhaps you’re just not sure if you’re able to conceal your new pipework, or how it can be concealed for the best effect.

So, with that in mind, I’ve decided to answer those questions and more. As an experienced heating engineer, here are five of the most common questions I get asked about concealing surface pipework when relocating a boiler.

1. Can you conceal pipes in a cavity wall? 

Want to conceal pipes in a plaster wall or cavity wall? 90% of the time, the answer to this question is: yes! However, not if those pipes are of the gas variety. This is because gas pipes are not meant to be kept inside a wall out of sight.

Why? Well, for instance, say someone was joining/screwing something into the wall, and ruptured the gas pipe the gas pipe. You wouldn’t necessarily know, and gas could then gather in the cavity. So, the next time someone turns on a light or lights a candle, there could be an explosion. That’s why you can never conceal gas pipes in a cavity wall.

2. Can your gas pipe be boxed in?

The good news is yes, it can! However, it would have to be vented at either side. If a gas pipe is boxed in, it must have a grill at both sides of it, so that if the pipe is ruptured or fractured somehow, you’ll be able to smell the gas coming in and that gas could escape through the vents.

If there are no vents, and the area is plastered or wallpapered over, the gas would be caught inside – a bit like a jam jar. So, the next time someone lit a candle or light switch? You’ve guessed it: kaboom!

3. Does it have to be in a big ugly box?

Nope. Box skirting can actually look quite good – it can even look like part of the building. A professional joiner should be able to help. However, your engineer has to know that you’re going to do it as box skirting, so that you don’t see it so much.

This is common in old flats which are being converted into modern ones, or basement flats. A lot of the time you can conceal pipework in suspended ceilings, along with downlights and fans etc.

4. How do you keep exposed pipework to a minimum?

In some properties, there is stone or sealed flooring. This usually means there has to be surface pipework, which is run along at a high level, before being dropped down to the radiators.

However, if you have an old flat, for instance, with radiators that are back-to-back in some rooms (like kitchen-to-bathroom), you can get away with just bringing one set of pipes down, before it tees off through the wall to feed the next radiator. This can mean just three boxes instead of around seven. It’s all about being as clever as possible.

5. Is there another way than boxed-in pipes?

Again, it’s about being clever, and more experienced engineers will be better than newbies. In properties where you have solid or sheeted floors, rather than have pipe boxes or take up the floor, you can run pipes behind the bath panel, take kick plates off in the kitchen, and take the pipes through routes not everyone might think of. A little bit of ingenuity goes a long way.

Another way to do it is if you have concrete floors and you’re not currently staying there. You could cut through the concrete floors and put the pipes in the floor instead. It’s a much better way than having pipe boxes.

Or, the third solution:

I had a client who had two cottages joined together. They had an old coal-fired boiler, radiators and pipes, all surfaced. Were able to fit pipes on the actual floor, then fitted wooden flooring over the top of the pipes. This brought the floors in-line with the other cottage, and allowed them to put insulation under the floor.

So, concealed pipework, insulated floors and in-line cottages – not a bad result. The only issue was that I had to take 20mm from the doors. It worked a treat!

Advice from an experienced engineer

My advice is to read this blog, then start having a look around your house. Think about where you could possibly hide pipes, or if there’s a route you can go around the house to keep visibility to a minimum. It’s always amazing how you can’t find the route, but keep looking – there are some ingenious ways to get them hidden.

I was recently quoting for a job where the boiler has twin flues going through the whole building. The customer was relocating the boiler to the other side of the building, taking the floor out and running pipes through a suspended ceiling.

Another quote told her the pipes had to be run and boxed in, and that there wouldn’t be enough space. However, she’d seen her neighbours’ recent job, and the engineer didn’t even look into the void. So, she dismissed him right away and called us. Always get a few different opinions if you disagree. Trust your gut.

Conclusion

I hope you’ve found this blog helpful when discovering more about concealing surface pipework and boiler relocation. You’d be surprised how many options there are! And it’s usually the most experienced engineers who can find the best solution. So, with the right know-how, you may be able to conceal pipework without having to box it in – or with minimal boxing in.

Do you have any questions about concealing surface pipework? Let me know in the comments’ section. I’m always happy to help!